Albania is a wonderful, friendly and safe country. Ignore what you might have heard about gangsters and drugs. The climate is agreeable, staying mild through most of the winter. The coast is the destination for most tourists in the summer, but the Albanian Alps, just a short ride inland are the most rewarding part of the country.
Facilities can be basic, though this is improving as tourists are welcomed. Expect to be quite a rarity as a touring cyclist, but very much welcomed.
The main routes across the country follow the mountain gorges, choose from either side of Tomorri National Park: Devilo Gorge route to the North or Berat County to the South. Of these the Southern route is more popular but I’d recommend the more remote Devilo Gorge (or both).
North of Tirana the Dajti National Park is amazing, but the roads, or rather tracks, can be a bit sketchy. For a road only-route head North on the busy main road for 20 km then head through Kruje and on to the mountain road.
Roads
The roads in Albania can be atrocious, especially in the mountains. Even where there are main routes the land will slip under the road leaving big cracks or jumps in the level. You’ll need to keep an eye on the road at all times.
Minor routes are often unmade surfaces which can get quite wet. Be prepared for slow progress.
Sustenance
Albanian food is not great, but given its location there is plenty of Italian, Greek and other European cuisine available.
Water is not often found in the mountains, stock up where you can.
