Day 269
The south part of Laos is very different to the north. Not just that there are no mountains, here I’m less of a novelty, though no less warmly welcomed. I’ve passed a fair few cyclists on their way to Cambodia, including three Indians. Some of the kids run out to shout hello, but it’s not the excited crowds like we got in the north.
The road to the Thai border is almost deserted, which means a quick crossing, then the rest of the day is spent on very rural roads around the reservoir, some asphalt, some concrete and a lot of compacted sand.
Day 270
I start the day by swapping to a new chain. It’s interesting that these very cheap (€2) Maya chains are lasting 4-5000 km despite being caked in sand, while the Shimano chains in Europe were cactus after only 1000 km. The one I’ve picked up in Hanoi comes in a tiny pack and I’m a little worried it’s for a kid’s bike. It’s turns out to be long enough but only just – only a single link pair to cut off. Brake pads are looking a little thin but they can wait.
The roads are very quiet out of Det Udom, and even when I need to cut back from the 2ary roads on to the primary, basically a motorway, I’ve almost got the road to myself. Then it dawns on me that I’ve strayed into the red zone, as in FCDO advise against all travel. Oops. There’s no evidence of the Troubles, but I’d better not get run over or any other emergency.
Day 271
Another long day of flat wide roads. I end up in a place called Packham where there’s a nice homestay run by an expat originally from South London. Disappointingly he’s not from Peckham but actually Downham, not far from where I grew up.
Day 272
The day starts with a gentle climb through the national park and a not so gentle descent down to the plains of southern Thailand. I think I might be able to cover the 340 km to Pattaya in two days and push on to stay at a motel just off the main highway.
Day 273
It’s quite hot in the afternoon here, and by 2PM I realise I’m not going to make it to Pattaya without arriving totally knackered so I detour to the coast to find a place to stay for the night.
Day 274
Thankfully there are quiet side roads here as the main road is a combination of motorway and trunk road, 14 lanes in total, very unpleasant at the points I have to join it to pass junctions. Instead I can ride through the palms, stopping at a cycle cafe by the reservoir, and arrive in Pattaya in the early afternoon. Here I can take a few days break, and also meet up with my Great Friend Jorge who I’ve not seen for at least thirty years. An added bonus is that he runs the Hard Rock Hotel here so he’s fixed me up with a room at F&F rate plus complementary access to the lounge.
There’s also a cycle shop at Jontien beach where I can get some new shorts before the lycra on my last remaining pair becomes see-through, and a few other bits and pieces.
(To be continued)