Although the war of the 1990s is very recent, and there are reminders of this everywhere, Bosnia is a rewarding cycling destination. The scenery is typical Balkans with mountains and valleys perhaps not as stunning as Albania but still beautiful. The roads are relatively free of traffic and mostly high quality.
In Sarajevo, choose to cycle up to the abandoned olympic park rather than take the cable car – you’ll be able to take your bike on to the old bob-sleigh track!
Many countries now have converted old railways into cycle paths, but by far the best one in Europe is the Ciro Trail. This runs between the Croatian border and just South of Mostar and is a two-day ride – there’s an excellent but affordable hotel in one of the old stations about half way.
The route is stunning, with most of the original infrastructure, like the stations, signal boxes and bridges, still in place. It hugs the high sides of the valleys, crosses impossible-looking escarpments and cuts through tunnels.
Sustenance
Coffee is a big thing in Bosnia, served in the Turkish style and with great pride.
Vegetarians can find it a little difficult, the popular dishes are all lamb-based, such as ćevapi or various dolma-like dishes of leaves stuffed with mince. Burek can be found with cheese, leeks or spinach, and is a little less stodgy than some other Balkan states.
Public water points are rare, but as a small country you’re never far from a village.
Warning
There is still unexploded ordnance in Bosnia. Around 25 people a year are killed by land mines, even now.
DO NOT stray from the path in remote areas (this includes the Ciro Trail). If you need a wee, do it on the path, not in the bushes.
DO NOT explore abandoned buildings, they may be booby-trapped.
DO NOT go mountain biking without a local guide – mountain biking is popular so it shouldn’t be hard to find someone to hook up with.
