Georgia is bounded on the North by the Greater Caucasus and on the South by the Lesser Caucasus (no less challenging to cross). Between them is an area of lowland from Zugdidi in the West to Tblisi in the East.
Georgians are very friendly and welcoming of Europeans, expect to be offered home-made fruit-based vodka at every opportunity. Generally they are pro-Europe and anti-Russia, but as anywhere it’s best to avoid discussing politics. EU flags are flown all over. There are other national/ethnic groups such as the Svans in the Northwest, Abkhazians in a breakaway republic in the West, and Ossetians in the North. It is not possible to enter South Ossetia, but Abkhazia can be entered with permission. The Upper Svaneti is Georgian.
Roads
Mostly good surfaces in the lowlands, but traffic can be hazardous. Keep alert, and be prepared to pull off the carriageway for oncoming overtakers who won’t care that you’re there. It’s common on wider roads to see a 4×4 overtaking a lorry that’s overtaking another lorry.
Away from the main highways the roads are a pleasure to cycle, smooth tarmac and ever-changing scenery.
In the mountains the surfaces vary but expect to find unmade/gravel surfaces at passes. The Northern approach to the Upper Svaneti is passable only by bicycle, motorbike, or horse.
Sustenance
Food varies widely across the region, the one thing that can be found everywhere is Khatchapuri, cheese bread with various fillings. In the Black Sea area it’s formed into a boat with an egg on top. Sometimes it’s more like a pie filled with beans.
In Tblisi and Kutaisi there is a wide variety of Georgian dishes which are a wonderful east-west mix of styles and flavours. Outside of the cities, expect simple stews, normally with lamb.
Water is not available in the mountains, stock up before setting out.
Svaneti
The UNESCO Heritage region of Upper Svanti is the highlight of any cycle tour of Georgia. The roads of the Southern approach have been recently upgraded but expect rough surfaces and tough climbs. If doing the full loop (which you should, most popularly cycling from the Northeast) then expect some walking.
