Romania is one of the best countries in Europe for a cycling tour. The roads are well-kept, the weather is generally dry with light winds (prefer spring and autumn) the scenery is fantastic. Even in the mountains the gradients are rarely challenging. And it has the most amazing road to cycle — the Transfăgărășan pass through the Carpathians.
Roads
Generally very good, and resurfaced regularly, though some places they will be rough hardcore. This often happens after the last village before a county border: they don’t see the point of tarmacking to another council’s jurisdiction. 28 or 32 mm tyres recommended.
Drivers can seem to be unpredictable, swerving round potholes and driving fast, but they actually take a lot of care as there may well be a horse and cart round the next bend. They give cyclists a lot of room.
Transfăgărășan
The highlight of any cycling trip to Romania. This road, known as Ceaușescu’s Folly, was built by and for the military, so never exceeds 10% gradient. It is closed in the winter, sometimes until late June, so the best time is the autumn.
It has become quite popular recently, there will be a lot of cyclists riding these days, and quite a few cars but speeds will be low. Plan a full day for entire route, though there are hotels about half-way, both sides. Lights essential for the tunnel at the top.
Bears
The forests in central Romania are home to most of Europe’s brown bears — around 6,000 of them. Mostly they stay off the roads on account of the traffic, but if you’re on a lightly-used road you may well come across one. When you see one, it most likely won’t have seen you yet, they are very short-sighted. If it’s on its own, you can usually just cycle past, keeping a wide berth, and it won’t bother you. But if you see a mother bear with cubs, turn round and get a good distance away. After a short walk down the road, they’ll head back into the forest. Do not try to get close for a photo, as cute as the cubs look, the mother bear can run at 40 km/h if she perceives you as a threat.